jstar @ 28
New routing is definitely my favorite part of climbing, and one of my most inspiring outlets in life, period. Rapping over virgin terrain - uncertain what you may find - connecting the dots, touching...
View ArticleOff from the Fins
My trip back to the Fins is all but wrapped up. As expected, Idaho, and it's lovely inhabitants showed me an incredible time. I was really not sure exactly what I would find on this return trip to the...
View ArticleStalk and Ambush
Suddenly... it's cooler. The sun is lower in the sky, nights are longer and the breeze chills your skin as it brushes past you. Maybe autumn is soon, or here... or perhaps it's finally just not hot....
View ArticleWyo -> IMF -> Utah
Sitting here at the Ibis Cafe in Logan, Utah. Yesterday morning I felt semi-lost, kinda confused, but mostly I felt a pretty incredible sense of freedom. The Idaho Mountain Fest had just wrapped up...
View ArticleSuper Tweak
I've never thrived from the pressure scenario one is likely to find in a comp setting, but sometimes a little environmental or circumstantial pressure has helped me put down projects. There are so many...
View ArticleChange of Plans
After a few days at Logan Canyon early in the month I was headed to Colorado. The plan was to pack, temporarily say goodbye to Zeke dog and make a sharp turn back westward to Yosemite. Plenty of times...
View ArticleThe New
West Virginia showed me a good time. I was just about as blown away as I expected by the New. The rock there is nothing short of incredible. The people are great, the scene is fun and certainly more...
View Articlea brief escape
Climbing means so much to me. It's my world - it's my passion, it's largely who I am, it's what I do, it's what I dream of and in the last few years it's even become my career. I could write countless...
View ArticleAmerica's Best 5.14
Not sure exactly why but I'm kind of obsessed with lists. Especially 'best of' type lists and, naturally, the banter surrounding the creation of said lists. What could be a better way to end the...
View Article2014
2014. Damn. 2013 ended well. Surrounded with great friends, many opportunities opening up and exciting things in my future. One thing that I've always worked towards in my life is having something rad...
View ArticleLa Lune
Early last March I wrote this blog post. At the time of writing I didn't know it, but I was close to giving up. The heat soon became overwhelming and it was not long at all before my efforts were...
View Articlenext up
I often feel like momentum can be one of our greatest assets as climbers. It's easy to let go after a big win. We all want to celebrate, and enjoy the feeling of success and accomplishment - especially...
View Articlespectrum and beyond
'Spectrum' 14c. This was an incredible project at a crag just outside of Las Vegas called the Promised Land. The day of I warmed up on the bottom as I had been on days before -- a unique slab on...
View ArticleSacred and Profane
The variety of weather conditions out here in the winter still amazes me. Just last week we made the arduous hour hike to the Promised Land - filled with somewhat hopeless optimism - only to find that...
View Articleupdate
Alright, I'm just going to get right into it. It's been a pretty rad week or so since I last updated. Several years back when I was passing through Smith Rock, climbing 'Just Do It', I met a dude named...
View Articlemarch so far
3 weeks left in Las Vegas. It's been an incredible winter for me out here. The weather has held up beautifully, I've had a plethora of psyched and awesome partners, and I nabbed a handful of incredible...
View Articlea show, a wall and whatnot
Last week for my slideshow in Vegas I presented something a little different than I usually do. Typically my slide-shows are trip focused, or just a slew of geographically focused climbing porn to get...
View Articleleaving las vegas
Last couple weeks were pretty burly. After success on the Buffalo Wall, I remained pretty fired up for a while. It reminded me of my experience in years past - the bigger the objective, the longer the...
View ArticleTBPodcast
As I mentioned in a past blog, some of my very good friends have been working hard, putting together a really cool new online resource for climbers, called Training Beta. As part of the site, they are...
View Articlea few days left
Well, I'm off to France in under a week. I've already been checking the weather there, corresponding with friends in the area and making a packing list. Needless to say, I'm really stoked. My trip to...
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