Jonathan Siegrist

My winter in Vegas this year seemed especially short. Partially no doubt because it was short - about half the length of my typically residence - but also because I spent the vast majority of my days chugging laps on the campus board or strapping weights to my body and dangling. I would have preferred to be romping about the hills and exploring, but I knew that I would need to prepare if I had any chance at my goals for the next step.

Well.. that next step is creeping right up. Now I'm back in Colorado, buried in snow. I leave for a 90 day journey to Europe in one week. I'm stoked, I'm nervous, I'm curious... all that. It has been another long road of training, gathering stoke, trying new things and beating the shit out of myself. The training definitely works. Which is encouraging, but it's also super hard on my body. Like Adam Ondra mentioned in a recent interview with TrainingBeta.com, pushing yourself just to the brink of injury - but not beyond - is one of the hardest parts about elite level training. I went a little too hard and strained my shoulder a little over a week ago.

one of few new FAs I did in Vegas in-between training days, 'Generations' at the Sand Box in Red Rock.

Last weekend I went down to LA, in what was a perfectly timed mission to help Jared Vagy with a huge shotlist of photo content for the second edition of his incredible resource 'The Ultimate Climber: Prevent Injury and Peak Your Performance'. I arrived quite worried about the condition of my shoulder and left with an optimistic diagnosis and furthermore a laundry list of ways to compliment my training with injury prevention. I have a feeling that Jared will become a strong ally for me in the realm of therapy and health as Mike and Mark Anderson have become in the realm of training. I feel lucky to have such rad and knowledgeable people in my corner.

The other obvious upside to visiting Jared was that I finally had the chance, albeit a quick one, to see and explore LA. Part of me certainly arrived prepared to hate LA. Traffic, pollution, pretentious crowds, cliquey... we've all heard the rumors. The reality... Los Angeles feels like vacation. Beautiful views, ocean air, flowers, fast cars, diverse crowd. I liked it there. It's fringy and classic and American and really everything and anything you would want it to be. The traffic is horrid though, and I'm not sure that I could ever settle in a place with so many other people, but I very much look forward to another visit.

not bad.

Some other rad stuff:
I reviewed the brand spanking new Sportiva Genius. Click through for some photos and my thoughts.

I interviewed a good friend and bad ass Canadian crusher Mike Doyle on his recent send of Necessary Evil, his thoughts on grade inflation and coaching Sean McColl, and more.

Also, EpicTV released a fun, rad little piece from homeboy Cameron Maier on our adventures in the Swiss Alps last summer. Have a watch here below..

Landed in Spain. A week later I'm feeling pretty settled in. Jet lag is done. I'm learning my way around the little town of Cornudella de Montsant. I'm picking up a few more phrases, getting to know the crowd of climbers who are here, sussing where to shop and where to park and go on walks and whatnot. It's nice here. The vibe is rural, tranquilo and very climbing focused.

Most people are projecting. Seems like the thing to do here - to pick something burly and beat your head against the wall repeatedly. It's perfect company for me. This is why I came here, to Spain, to Siurana.

Siurana is beautiful. Only a 45 minute drive from the Mediterranean but it's very mountainous. The crag itself is colorful and varied. There are short and steep sectors, there are tall and vertical ones. One characteristic that seems to be consistent throughout is crimps. Crimps and pockets. The style reminds me of... Smith Rock meets Cathedral / Wailing Wall, Utah. It's not so foreign - it's a similar style that I've climbed on many times. People really love the climbing here, there is a strong contingent of stoked travelers and locals alike. Weekends are busy.

I came to Siurana specifically because I want to try and do La Rambla 9a+. It's a hard route, in a tough area. It's tall and involved and old school. It's awesome.

So far I've climbed 5 days and have been making steady progress. On my third day of tries I linked from the ground into the final boulder problem crux. On the fourth day I did the route with one fall. Yesterday (day five) I refined random beta and made some important links through and into the crux. It's coming along. 'Poco a poco', a local said to me a few days ago - this will become my mantra.. ('little by little').

I'm remembering patience. I'm remembering determination and stoke but also doubt and anxiety. Trying hard routes is hard on your body but also your mind. It's a game I've played so so many times in the past but even still I'm learning and applying new methods. It's exciting, and I'm stoked. I think I can climb this route, but whether or not I actually will is only partly in my control. Wish me luck!

Photos to the left are from homegirl Colette McInerney. We are piecing together a video short for EpicTV -- details to follow!

Since mid last December I've been preparing mentally and physically to try La Rambla. Almost akin to finally meeting your climbing hero in person, it's strange to have watched all the videos, read all the interviews and even visualized myself climbing on La Rambla well before ever arriving in Siurana -- then the moment when dreams meet reality -- it can be quite surreal. The more I climbed on the route the more I grew an appreciation for it. It's diverse, very tall and demanding. Much like my experience with Biographie last year, the key element of success on this climb is to glide your way up the initial 90 moves before the crux - it's important to try and make this section of the climb feel so easy. In the beginning those 90 moves of 5.14 feel like a project in and of themselves, but after a week or so the 'bottom' of the route transformed into more of a warm up. And yet still the crux felt so hard.

COLETTE McINERNEY Photo

My mantra became 'poco a poco' - little by little. And my attitude remained focused on making small improvements everyday. Even if those improvements were subtle or a slight contribution to how efficiently I could climb through the bottom, I was stoked. After about 6 or 7 days trying the route I fell exiting the crux, after the hardest moves. So at this point I knew that the route could probably go for me, but I had no idea when. In another day? Another month? Next season?

I notice a lot of strong climbers exude quite a bit of confidence. Maybe it's because I'm simply not as strong, or maybe I pressure myself too much to assume success and then, to deal with failure. Regardless, high levels of confidence have never been the path for me. Personally, it's always felt like a lie to be super confident. I prefer to show up empty, and just try. Again and again. Removing expectation is really hard, but the less I arrive with, the better it seems. Maybe it's strange but I almost imagine the idea of success like a sand castle. It's so fleeting, so unpredictable, and so fragile that to put too much faith in it feels like a grave mistake - at least for me. Clearly I am not a competitor!

COLETTE McINERNEY Photo

So with this spirit I just kept punching the clock knowing that maybe one day it would work for me. Thankfully, it did. I finished La Rambla 5.15a, on March 20th. The conditions were perfect, the pressure of a looming storm had arrived, my friends were at the cliff, and legend Dani Andrada was there cheering my efforts. A perfect day to send. Three months of training effort boiled down into a single moment; this is my favorite thing in climbing, and the reason why I can't seem to quit trying hard. A huge thank you to all of my supportive crew; friends and family and supporters and sponsors... it's huge to have everyone behind me.

This was my primary goal for my three month trip to Europe. It is an exciting feeling to have so much time left here, and likewise so many directions I could take at this point. I managed to squeak out a send of 'El Mon de Sofia' 14a after La Rambla and just before the skies erupted. Catalonia sunk into nearly a week of rain and stormy weather.

We left the dire conditions in Siurana and checked out the awesome crag of Margalef - which was also terribly wet - before we drove two hours north to Oliana. I rested for a few days and then climbed in Oliana for two days before returning to Cornudella (Siurana). Recently I've been putting in some effort on this incredible test piece route, 'Chicane' 14c on the Can Piqui Pugui wall. This has quickly become not only my favorite wall at Siurana but one of my favorite walls in the world. Compact rock, incredible, old school and demanding routes. Beautiful scenery and without the crowds of the normal Siurana hang outs. It's awesome. Many of the rigs here are from the late 80s and 90s. It seems like every route here is a half or full letter grade harder than the routes on the 'other side'. 'Siouxie' is one of the best, most interesting and varied 5.13's I've ever done and I completely loved the desperately big moves on 'Llulaby' 12d.

the 7b at Can Piqui are no joke. BEAR CAM PHOTO

A thumbs up moment on 'Pren Nota' BEAR CAM PHOTO

Unfortunately Chicane is really a cool weather route. And it's not been cool. I climbed three times into the final moves of the crux last day there but it seemed futile to try again until it really cooled off. So yesterday I switched gears and instead of hard projecting I went to sample some of the other cliffs around Siurana. It started with an onsight of the amazing and beautiful 'Los Borrachos de Cornu' 13a, and also a send on it's bouldery neighbor 'Pequeno Saltamontes' 13a. 'Ramadan' 13+ was next on the list and a Siurana classic. I must have really nailed the crux on this thing, or perhaps it suited me because the onsight felt (no kidding) easier than some of the 7b terrain on the Can Piqui wall! I flashed it's neighbor 'L'escamaria' 13a but it nearly took all of my skin with it... quite sharp. I had been looking to try 'Pren Nota' 13b for weeks and finally got the spray down for a flash on this one - one of the best in the area I'd say - and ended the night with a headlamp onsight of 'Outback' 13a. It was super refreshing to clip some chains and enjoy some of the other terrain. Now I feel ready to try hard on this wickedly thin, burly thing again! But first a rest day on the Med.

Lastly, I'd like to announce a new partnership with EpicTV. I've done some films with them in the past, but this partnership means that, in short, you will be seeing more video! Everyone loves videos and I think this is going to be a rad situation. Epic has the most content, by far, of any spot online and along with myself - proudly - Adam Ondra and Hazel Findley are also joining on with Epic. Wow. Rad company, seriously I'm honored!

Below is my most recent release from them that I made with my good friend Celin Serbo on a wicked route up at Independence Pass that I did last August. Enjoy! and look forward to many more Epic releases this next year...

Over the weeks I've fallen more and more in love with Spain. When I first arrived, now just a little over a month ago, I was honestly not sure how much I liked it. The rock quality didn't completely blow me away like Ceuse, the landscape isn't totally lush and breathtaking like the Swiss Alps. The food and beer is not much to write home about. It's hard to really put my finger on it, but perhaps it's just the vibe, that gradually lured me in... The sun is always shining. People are stoked and motivated. There are just so many bad ass crags in every direction that it's hard not to get fired up. So much sending is going on, all the time. It's an inspiring place. And now I totally see that, where perhaps in my first weeks I didn't. I get it now.

Since I last wrote my journey here has been amazing. I remained focused on climbing at the Can Piqui Pugui wall, eventually finding cooler temps and finishing 'Chicane' 14c, but not without a battle. The crux is very long, with nearly two foot moves for every one hand move. The hardest section is reaching rightward off of a horrible left hand crimp side pull at the very end of the crux. For a shorter climber, or really a climber of any height, this is a very hard move. I consider this route to really be in my style, and yet still I think it took me more effort than any other climb of this grade for years. The reward is always directly proportional to the battle, so finishing Chicane felt really good. I did the resistant, awesome 'Renegoide' 14a and the mega classic 'Mr Cheki' 14a and 'Anabolica' 13b next, before settling into Spain's first 8c, which has subsequently been upgraded to 14c, 'L'Odi Social'. This route is an entirely different beast. The route boils down to a short crux, involving a super powerful shouldery tension move, all based around a downright awful right foothold. Smeary, polished like glass... It takes a ton of body tension. It was a really fun challenge, and a cool change. This route really is just hard moves, not so much bad holds. I followed it with 'La Ballade des Pendus' 13d yet another killer route on this wall. Everything I did back there was bad ass.

Chicane.... Bear Cam photo

Next objective was to head back to El Pati. My homeboy Sonnie Trotter had been trying 'Estado Critico' 14d for a couple weeks and he was narrowing in on the send. It's a massive route, on perhaps the steepest section of rock in Siurana. The start is a thuggy 13a or b up a crack system. You can rest well at the end of this section before you break right into a long intro boulder problem. With some pretty heinous feet, you compress and use tension to get yourself up to the crux pounce. You're tossing to a blind 3 finger pocket with your left hand. From here you get very little rest as you fire through three more short cruxes - edgy, sequential and pumpy to the very top on a brilliant blue streak. I was afraid of the pounce move, fearing that it would be hell for a short climber, but I pretty quickly found my feet and sussed it out. It would be the quick traverse afterwards that was my personal crux. After so much powerful climbing on the Can Piqui wall I knew I would need a few goes of getting super pumped on this rig to feel some fitness again. Second day on the route I one-hung twice, falling from the pounce. But it was a great opportunity to remind my body what it's like to climb on steep terrain for 35 meters. Today I went back with big psych. Conditions were perfect, Sonnie was there all stoked post-send (he sent just days ago! hell yeah) on belay, and Cameron Maier was on a rope filming. I battled with the route, several times on the verge of slipping out, had to keep moving to make the chains, forearms burning! I love this shit... when the moves are not so hard, and it's possible to keep climbing even with a monstrous pump. After I stuck the pounce I knew I would fight for a send, but I didn't expect to make it. Anchors. Always the best feeling. I did the shared start 'Kalea Borroka' 14a first try today as well, and snuck in an onsight of 'Zona Zero' somewhere in the last few days - this was one of my favorites in the area for sure.

------Estado Critico----> Bear Cam Photos

Jokingly, we have told our friends that the routes on Can Piqui are all a letter grade harder - in my experience it seems the older the routes, the harder. Old school is just... fierce. For me, no doubt the two hard routes I did on that wall both felt harder than Estado. Maybe 'my style' is actually evolving, or maybe I got super lucky on Estado. I have no idea. They're all just hard climbs! What really matters is that we enjoy our lives and challenge ourselves. My time here in Siurana has been both of those things - challenging, and very enjoyable. Like I said before, I love this place. Now, it's time to move on... !!!

Exhausted. Like a wide eyed child aggressively sampling their way through Charlie's bustling Chocolate Factory, it seems as though I've metaphorically reached my sugar limit... There are just so many crags, and so many hard routes all across Catalunya, I've been slowly delaying the inevitable over the last several weeks and now I'm... smoked.

I feel the same kind of deep fatigue that I usually do in the first few weeks of a hard training cycle. One rest day doesn't do the trick any more, and soreness seems to linger for many sessions. On some nights my sleep is even disturbed from pulsating forearms. The towering walls and brutal Spanish pump has caught up to me! This feels pretty good really.

A brilliant moment of Catalan life. We were so lucky to be in Cornudella
on this day, and even give a hand the night before at practice.
So much color and passion in Catalan life. A memorable experience.

everyone is just downright pooped

About ten days ago I spent two days in a row on 'Estado Critico' 14d, and, with a brutal pump I clipped the chains, then followed with 'Kalea Borroka' 14a on my first try. Why not try some enormous, pumpy pocket climbing the very next day? So we ventured to Montsant. This crag is not far from Siurana, but offers a very unique experience. With outstanding views, sometimes all of the way to the Med, this crowning cliff sits well above the grapes below. My buddy Sonnie Trotter was keen to finish a route there he had tried this trip called 'L-Mens' 14a. It's a rad swooping pocket line on very high quality conglomerate. Sonnie gave me some running beta and I flashed it. Fighting a pump to the finish of this 40 meter rig, I was very stoked. It's a super good route. A little powerful, and very resistant. To the right is Falconetti 13c, with a massive 14a extension. I spent about an hour resting and scoping out the line before I tied in for an onsight attempt. A few dynamic and uncertain moves in the bottom pitch had me a little worried but I rested and quested my way to the 50 meter finish on this thing. I mistakingly lowered off with my 80 meter, which left me dangling about 50 feet off the deck at the end of my rope for a while... some shenanigans ensued... thanks for the help everyone... This was a great day of first try climbing for me.

After one rest day we ventured to Margalef. I am usually a little turned off by super popular routes - I typically prefer the obscure or the forgotten zones - but everyone I knew that had climbed or tried Era Vella had nothing but great things to say about it. So... why not check it out? It's a very steep and long route. There really are no terribly hard moves. A lot of 5.13 climbing, over and over and over. Some mini cruxes here are there. The key characteristic to it's difficulty is the lack of rests for how massive it is. There is a lot of information to remember and much of the wall looks very similar. The hardest sequence is maybe v7. With pretty garbage beta I felt close to a send on my second try. I had fun with the fight.

The next day we came back and first try I finished the route.

The best sends of my life are the ones that I fight the hardest for. The barely there flash or onsight attempts.. all day adventures in the mountains fighting conditions and fear.. the routes that I train for months to send.. When I clipped the anchors of La Rambla last month I looked back to not just the hard climbing days I'd spent trying it, but the months before I had sacrificed nearly everything to prepare. It's this experience - the full circle - that deeply inspires me. This element of my climbing has taught me more about my character than I ever imagined. I really don't care what the grades are. Some routes are hard as hell and we will never be certain of a send - furthermore they require a transformation from us. Maybe that transformation is physical or maybe it's something greater. Other routes come easily, and for the most part, while these climbs might be fun, they really hold very little meaning. And that's fine! We can't be overwhelmed with the pressure and emotion of projecting at our limit every day we go climbing, even if it's what truly inspires us. I climbed Era Vella and I had a lot of fun doing it. Grades are there to offer a foundation for difficulty but the more I climb the more I realize the plasticity of grading. I could comment on how I feel that Era is easy and make a list of routes graded 8c that are much harder and blah blah blah but what I'm after is not a grade, it is an experience. So never mind all that. I had fun climbing the route, and cheering on friends at the crag and getting pumped and hiking out in the dark and laughing at Cameron's nausea on the drive.

Greg Kerzhner tries out the powerhouse rig, Mr Cheki 8b+

Below a Bearcam photo of me climbing El Prisionero 8b+ a route at Montserrat that I've been dreaming about for weeks.

Next up... we ventured to Finestra sector of Margalef. A beautiful zone. I laughed my way up Montgronyeta 7b+, a stunning route with concrete-hard drip features. Some of the most fun I've had on this trip. The two 7c+ to it's left were also stunning and the rock on this wall all together is breathtaking. I made my way up a handful of great 7's and onsighted a nice pocketed 8a+ but the main take away from our few days there was that I need rest. I tried 'Victims del Passat' 14c a handful of times and honestly never even got close to a send. I started thinking back and realizing that I had not taken more than 1 consecutive rest day for a month.. and my body was beginning to feel pulverized. So we left our apartment in Cornudella as planned, and moved to Barcelona.

I love Barcelona. And what a perfect combination to spend some days in the city and also have the chance to check out Montserrat. It's such a brilliant place... it deserves more explanation than I have energy for at the moment, so you'll have to wait for my next post. As for the next week, I'll be exploring Montserrat and recovering in this vibrant city. I'm so blessed....

I really did not at all intend to stir controversy with my previous post. I was speaking about my experience on Era Vella as though I was chatting with a friend - in retrospect maybe I should have more thoughtfully crafted the post. It's come to my attention now that I've upset some of the climbing community so I really want to make a few things clear.

I did not intend to suggest a downgrade to 8c for Era Vella and foremost I did not mean to take away from anyone of the previous repeater's accomplishments. I genuinely do not think that I am capable of climbing 9a so quickly, especially considering my performances on other routes at neighboring crags within the same few weeks that I did Era Vella. I barely pulled off 'Mr Cheki' 14a on my third try a week before. I invested five days of hard effort to do Chicane 14c during that same time. And just days after I did EV I suffered on 'Victims del Passat' 14c, not even getting close to a send after several days - a route that many people consider 'soft'. I was not writing about my experience on EV to make myself look or feel big. I was only commenting on how grades and styles can feel so different between different crags and climbers. Maybe the route suited me well, or maybe I got really lucky that day.. or maybe the route is light for the grade.

Some areas / routes tend to be more demanding than others, this is observed by all of my peers. If you have never climbed at an area or on route that felt easy or likewise very hard for you, given its associated grade, that's very unique!

To me, what's important about my post is not the details of how hard I felt the route was - and that is why I refrained from sharing the message above, which clearly was a mistake because it lead people to make judgements about what I was attempting to say. What I wanted to share was my excitement about having a memorable experience when I climb. I want to climb awesome routes, classic routes, beautiful routes, and also hard routes. Yes, grades matter because they help us find routes to challenge ourselves and also because they do represent a rough foundation for difficulty. When I claimed that I didn't care about grades what I should have said was - my principle interest is to have a memorable experience... and to be challenged, and to be forced to improve and grow because this is the experience that I value the most and grades certainly help me find this.

I rarely find myself in the forums or amidst controversy, and I much prefer to keep it that way. The only 'statements' I was attempting to make are the ones outlined above. I hope this clears up any confusion and again, I'm sorry that what I wrote disturbed so many people out there - that was definitely not my intend. Hope to see you guys at the crag!!

After 6 weeks in sleepy Cornudella myself and the team were ready for some city life. If Catalunya hadn't already won my heart, ten days between Barcelona and nearby Montserrat finished the process. Barcelona is without a doubt one of my favorite cities in the world. So many places to explore, so many beautiful areas, energetic people, an incredible night life, and all at a shockingly affordable price tag. An amazing crew of climbers and friends assembled for a long weekend between the city and the crags. It was very memorable.

Montserrat is an easy 40 minute drive from the heart of Barcelona. It's a gigantic conglomerate outcropping, speckled with domes and towers of varied rock. Inbetween the old school crags you'll find much older refuges, monasteries and hermit dwellings. Like a maze of rock and trails it's hard to find your way. I looked forward to spectacular landscape, like the pages of a Dr. Sues story, but I had no idea how incredible the climbing would be. It is truly one of the most underrated areas I've ever been to.

My main stoke was to try 'El Prisonero', the route that broke Spain into the 8b+ range. A true classic, with sequential movement throughout on sloper conglomerate pockets and textured edges. A bold style - long powerful moves - and quite pumpy. Such a pleasure to do this climb. Afterwards, our tour guide Uri pointed out an unrepeated Ramon Julian rig that crosses over El Prisonero, only sharing 3 holds. The defining crux of this route is an explosive move off a horrendously small edge. Well.. after several heart breaking goes on it I broke the edge. Some new beta emerged for me using a even worse sloper, but I was too smoked to try anymore. We came back for more later in the week. I finished the route with my new beta which I was really stoked on. Not sure that this thing even has a name? Kind of a shame as I thought it was a super bad ass route. Ramon said 8c I would agree.

Nat climbing on a sick 8a+ 'Anillo del Poder' at La Momia. This route and the neighboring 8b 'Julia' are both pumpy, long and unique. Go to Sant Benet and climb these.

Next day out was a super fun one. We explored Agulla de Senglar. A beautiful wall covered in near perfect routes from 7b to 8b. 'Spirit Final' 8a+, 'Somni Diabolic' 8a, 'Ben Petat' 8a and 'Rush' 7c are some of my favorites I've done on this trip. A stunner of a wall.

Silfides. All time. Bear Cam Photo.

Lastly, Cameron, homboy Andre DeFelice and I got very lost looking for the Toxo del Clot del Tambor. An amazing, massive boulder nestled in the Castel zone. When we arrived we were all blown away by 'Silfides' this immaculate 8b on streaks - the line just jumps out to you. But first I was keen to try Ebola 8b+, a bold, traversing route through powerful pocket moves. So amazing. Such pure, bad ass climbing.

Next up the three of us journeyed to Chamonix for some work with my newest sponsor - Epic TV. This place always shocks me with its beauty. Too bad the weather turned horrible, and actually changed the direction of my last month for this trip... Switzerland was looking grim but Southern France was prime... so here we are... in Ceuse.

I'm settling into a hard route here and stoked to be back trying a super demanding rig. The views, the people, the vibe.. I'm remembering why I love this place. I had no intensions of ending up here this visit, but hey... I have no complaints.

Stoked.

A few weeks remaining in Europe. Here in Ceuse since early May. I'm planning my final days and even looking ahead to summer plans back in the US. Somehow Ceuse is even more spectacular than I remembered. Many good friends are around and the weather has been great. Climbers are a fun, insightful and diverse group of people. We all hike up the mountain every day and suffer / enjoy projects together. Many different languages at the cliff. Goat cheese. Sunsets.

Mirage, 7c+ on the Cascade Sector. One of the best pitches at this (or any) grade in the world. Long, featured, incredible stone, beautiful position. A true masterpiece of a climb. I also climbed 'Face de Rat' 8a+ yesterday and was equally blown away.

I've been battling with this route, 'Le Cadre Nouvelle' 9a since we arrived in Ceuse early in the month. It has a little taste of everything, some sections suited me really well and others were very demanding. A classic power move (just below the one pictured), kept me coming back again and again. I'm not a dynamic or snappy climber - it's one of my glaring weaknesses - but the move was a brilliant challenge. From hanging it became easy, from just a few moves in it often felt impossible. This kind of movement, so low percentage and unpredictable, can resist for weeks. The first time I stuck the move from the ground was on Wednesday and thankfully I punched it to the finish. With my timeline here winding down I felt quite nervous about this climb, especially the more I fell in love with it - the more I wanted it. I'm very excited to have done it, and furthermore to enjoy the last climbing days here. For me this was a hard one and a memorable one. I learned a lot from this route.

Life is great. Enjoy the weekend everyone!! Summer is here.

Last day in Europe. Last day in Catalunya.

No matter how far off, the last day always seems to... arrive. I never could have imagined the journey that this trip has offered me. Since I last wrote the pace of life has increased and nearly everyday has been memorable. With Le Cadre Nouvelle in the bag I was feeling ready for something of a change. For the first several months of this visit I tried to put the momentum of one send directly into my next battle. Momentum builds confidence and the combination can be very powerful. But likewise there is always a time and place for the rest of life too. Thankfully I climbed some amazing pitches still and meanwhile felt some relief from the demands of climbing at my limit. It has been perfect.

I first got lured into the Face de Rat sector at Ceuse. Truly the wall's namesake route was one of my favorites so I had to try the neighboring ones as well. To the left is a seldom climbed route, 'Race de Fate' 14a. So burly. Definitely doesn't help to be short on this one but I think regardless of your height it is a damn hard route. A unique sloper boulder problem gaurds the chains. To the right is 'La Rat Court Si c'est Vert' 13d with rock reminiscent of 'Lulu' from the Berlin, it packs a major punch into a short lower section and then cruises on perfect Ceuse slabs to the anchor.

Next we spent some time in the sun at the Cascade sector. Some of the best routes at Ceuse are here and no doubt some of the best routes in the world are here. I found the classic 'Rosanna' 13b to be super hard, and 'Association de Malfaiteurs' 13a would be one of my all time favorites -- traversing and wandering through a sea of massive jugs and pockets for over 40 meters. 'Correspondence Imaginaire' 13a, 'Tostaka' 13c and 'La Tombe se Savoie' 13b were all worth while although not my favorites.

Cameron and I said goodbye to the mountains and escaped to the Cote D'Azur. The Monaco Grand Prix was like nothing I have ever experienced. A level of wealth and excess that trumps anything I've witness or heard about. It was an interesting voyage and the race itself was exhilarating, but I definitely prefer the company of my peers or the solitude of the mountains. From a glance, being super rich is certainly not as cool as satisfying as one might imagine. A memorable weekend, without a doubt.

a solo mission to the Pyrenees. a cold as hell bivy, some majestic cattle and stunner sunsets...

Next I sad goodbye to the crew, dropped Cameron at the Airport, and wandered to Aix en Provence solo. I met some great people here, shared some meals and enjoyed a laid back day at a super nice gym in Aix -- Grimper. This last week I really wanted to return to Catalunya. Despite warm temps, my good friend and local bad ass toured me through some shady and incredible zones. Les Guilleumes at Montserrat and St Llorenc about an hour north of Barcelona. 'Fumanchu' 14a at Les Guilleumes is without question one of the best routes I've done on this whole trip. Beautifully technical pockets on near perfect barely featured Monserrat stone. With bold run-outs, engaging movement and few rests, this 30 meter pitch left a lasting impression on me. I took it as a parting gift from Catalunya.

Fumanchu.

'Xilom' 13b was just adjacent and also amazing. 'Dopamina' 13d was a tough one for me as was 'Bolita Moruna' 13b. At St Llorenc it was cool to see a new style and fresh crag. Some pumpy pocketed 13a's and b's kept me busy and stoked.

great people --

Port Olympia, Barcelona. I'm staying on a boat. Yes, it's awesome --

I came here with very little understanding about Spain and furthermore Catalunya, but I was blessed to meet some incredible people eager to share the best pieces of their home with me. I am so so thankful, and very ambitious to return. It's been absolutely amazing. Now it's time for a long flight and a Colorado summer. Onward.

Settling back into USA life. The pace has mellowed, the goals have changed, the faces and languages are different. I'm taking care of all the responsibilities that I avoided during travel, I'm making plans and seeing friends. Training hard for the summer and fall.

I always have a running list of obscure routes, forgotten projects, once such pressing ideas and little hints that friends have sent my way. This list is where I go when I feel a little lost or in-between travel when I'm keen to get out. I kinda love this list. Some routes stay on this list for many many years and others get deleted after a short visit or better yet a send.

I did two routes on this list since I landed back in the States. Homeboy Bear Cam was there to capture both---

I finished a route that I had bolted 2 years ago. 'I am the Walrus' is a 35 meter beast on the South Face of Seal Rock. In my (extended) absence, my long time buddy Elliot Bates took over the project, cleaning and unlocking sequences. He generously let me come back on board and climb the route last week. It's rad. Light duty 14b, just too hard at 14a for me. Elliot will send soon and then the route will be officially open. I have a feeling that it will be well loved by all the strong men and women of the Front Range..

'Ninja Ladder'14a. I first tried this Big Thompson test-piece only days after I climbed 'Grand Ol Opry' 14b at the Monastery - my first of the grade back in 2008. I remember this route feeling very hard. Not sure if I did all the moves that day. The route remained on my outmost radar for many years but this past April while climbing with Andre DiFelice we somehow brought it up. He being a Fort Collins local and good buddy to Geoff Sluyter, the first ascentionist. We got all fired up about it and it immediately moved to high priority on the forgotten list. So glad I revised yesterday and found my way to the top for likely the route's second ascent since it was bolted in the mid 90's and done in 2000. Truly it's a gem!

Much in the same schedule as last year, I set aside a good chunk of my summer months to be in the Colorado alpine. Estes Park is one of many places around the globe that I feel blessed to call home. Every August since I was born my family and I have taken a road trip - some longer than others as we moved around the country - to visit and enjoy Estes Park. Finally, some seven years ago, my parents pulled the trigger and bought a small cabin just a few miles from the entrance of Rocky Mountain National Park. Since then this early 20th century cabin has been the jump off spot for Diamond missions, days of bolting, mountain runs and any other exhausting endeavor we can get into up here.

Somehow, despite the huge rise in popularity over the last several years I barely even thought of bouldering in the Alpine. The taller objectives have always been my primary motivation, but I knew that one day, when it felt right (or I was kind of forced into it) I would dive into the awesome bouldering resource that is here in RMNP.

A way above average snow pack made me double guess my original summer plans... but... well.. maybe it was time to give this bouldering thing a shot.

I rarely tie in when I'm climbing indoors but realistically I've only clocked a handful of bouldering days outside a year for the last... eight years? And by todays standard I have never bouldered anything hard. Plus, with strength and power being my distinct weakness, maybe a summer of bouldering would be a perfect alternative. So there it is.

Week before last I got out as much as I could. Alone, with my Dad, or with who ever I met at the boulders. It was rad. I climbed 'Automater' v13, 'Element of Surprise' v12, 'Nothin but Sunshine' v13 and 'Centaur' v12. Probably more hard boulders in a handful of climbing days than I have done in my entire 11 years of climbing beforehand. It was very motivating and encouraged me to stick with it at least until the snow melts. The last two weeks I wrapped up a training cycle in Boulder and took a quick trip up to Squamish for the Arcteryx Climbing Academy.

Isabelle Faus agonizingly close on Centaur.

She is a bone crusher, and I would plan to see a lot more of this girl. Very inspiring to climb with her this day.

The Academy was awesome. I lined up with many of the other North American Arc Athletes -- we talked products, we shared stories, we gave our feedback and we celebrated together. This group, along with the whole Arcteryx family are so varied, talented and simply rad. It's an easy group to hang out with, get along with, and dream with. The actual event was hosted at a stunning venue - the atop the new Sea to Sky Gondola. We shared beers overlooking ridiculous sunsets with speakers and films playing through the evening. During the day I taught a sport climbing clinic with a crew of super motivated and strong climbers. After just 4 days I'm back at our little cabin in Estes, motivated and hopeful to get the most out of the next 3 weeks of pure bouldering!

If you missed it, several of the videos from my trip to Europe have emerged, with a few more still to release. Have a watch below for some sports action at Ceuse and Siurana. Enjoy! And while you're at it, click over to the brand new Bear Cam Media site for your visual pleasure!

---------Life Beyond Walls--------

It's been about a month of bouldering. So much learning... I know what to expect in the Bear Lake parking lot. I know the trail to Lake Haiyaha too well. I've met so many new people - almost an entirely different crowd than the sport climbing scene. I've acquired some power, I've fallen on my ass (x1000), my eyes have opened considerably. I can find my way around the boulders and even sometimes give others directions. The best outcome is that I've grown a considerable appreciation for bouldering, this specific corner of the Park, and furthermore I've really enjoyed myself.

Rocky Mountain National Park is truly the best venue for bouldering I've ever experienced, and Upper and Lower Chaos are down right stunning environments, just to be in. Add friends and motivation and a purpose to explore... this is a world class destination. Every day I've been up there I've felt blessed and stoked. To make things better I've even been doing some climbs too.

I set a very arbitrary goal in late June to try and climb a dozen V12s or harder before the Outdoor Retailer Show in early August. This is nothing more than a week's effort for bone crushers like Daniel, Jimmy or Dave but for me it felt like a formidable challenge. Especially considering that previously I had climbed only a couple V12's, ever. Doing the Automater V13 with relative quickness was hugely motivating, but it was still more or less a short, hard route. So I aimed for some pure boulders, like 'European Human Being' V12, 'Secret Splendor' V12 and 'Nothing but Sunshine' V13. These problems are less than 6 moves, and hard. These really opened my eyes to the more aggressive boulders around, and encouraged me to try one on the top of my list, Jade.

Flash on 'Barbed Wire Beard' V11

At first it was a bit of a battle to refrain from tying in. I wanted to get pumped so badly, but I stuck to the program and really tried to focus my energy on the bouldering life. Aside from a week of sour weather and a long weekend traveling, I have been in the Park 4 days a week all month. Things have really started to click for me in the last week, and especially in the last two days.

Bear Cam shooting up a storm on Meagan Martin and 'Running Scared' V10

On Sunday I climbed Jade. A problem that I have heard about since it's genesis in 2007. I never ever imagined climbing this problem and was skeptical even after trying it for an hour. In the moment I knew what needed to be done, and it was only a matter of forcing my body to exert itself near maximum. Doing the crux was a strange feeling that I've really never experienced before. Being so on the verge of failure and yet simultaneously feeling in complete control. Encouragement from friends, outstanding conditions and very low expectations lead me to the summit. It was... surreal... and very motivating.

Jade was number 9 on my list after 'Automater' V13, 'Element of Surprise' V12, 'Nothing But Sunshine' V13, 'Centaur' V12, 'Freaks of the Industry' V13, 'European Human Being' V12, 'Secret Splendor' V12 and 'Riddles in the Park' V12. Yesterday I returned to the Green 45 in search of number 10. 'Wild Cat' V12 was especially hard for me but I fought through it with a spot and support from my Dad. On the other side I started fooling around on 'Don't Get Too Greedy' V13, and give it a successful rip during a horrendous gale wind. It's one of my favorite problems that I've done. I've got one week of bouldering left.

Don't Get Too Greedy

Originally my hope was mainly to improve my power, and hopefully improve my chances of success on this fall's mission back to Spain. Somewhere along the way I started really liking bouldering, and while it still feels like practice, I am for sure planning another month of it next year. Yes, pretty stoked!

If you happen to be in the Estes Park area next month, come check out the Rocky Mountain Rendezvous on August 15. I will be presenting on my spring in Spain and this last month of bouldering, including many videos and photos and laughs! so yeah. Come and drink beer and enjoy!

Hopefully see some of you out there!

Last week I wrapped up my Bouldering goal for the summer and immediately started thinking ahead to the fall. I have tried my best over the last year to explore new places, despite how tempting it can be to just return to the same incredible spots over and over.

'Phallus' V12 will be my boulder problem for this season.. but I'm cooking up plans for a few bouldering trips next year!
I've been taking some GoPro footage over the last month of some of my efforts in RMNP. EpicTV will be hosting a grip of short videos soon, I will let you know when and where !

I saw so many new crags in the last 12 months, it has been so invigorating and stoke inducing. Nothing like arriving at a wall that you have never touched. All new warm ups, all new projects, all new scene. It's like traveling in general.. very stimulating and I love it. That being said, some routes and areas are very special and they deserve many seasons of effort and returning again and again. I'll be exploring brand new (to me) crags this winter when I return to beloved Catalunya but for this next trip I will be visiting - potentially for the last time - some of my very favorite crags, in search of some new stuff. And I'm pretty confident I will find it.

So next week I am off to Colorado, Idaho, Oregon and Wyoming. In the meantime I have been staying rarely busy. I'm using juggling several things at once but this last week or 10 days has been next level for me. Finishing my time in RMNP, a surprise commercial gig out of state, the Outdoor Retailer Show and seemingly dozen of other opportunities have kept me running at full pace. Life is good - amazing really, but I'm ready for some *brief* downtime...

DONT MISS the Rocky Mountain Rendezvous next weekend, the 15th of August! I'm doing a slide-show on my life in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spain, and more. Will be rad!

Enjoy a review that I just finished on a brand new Computer bag from Incase, and have a watch if you missed the second edition from Smith Optics --- Era Vella 9a, Estado Critico 9a and more...

On the road. Truck life.... and it's as good as I remembered. So much time outside. Sleeping like a champ. Camp fires, bolting routes, climbing until the sun sets.

Last week I turned 30 years old, in the company of good friends, in one of my favorite places. I'll let the photos do the talking, but let it be said that my life is so good and I'm thankful every single day. To everyone out there that texted, called, wrote and said to me happy birthday wishes thank you thank you thank you. My community is my family and I have a big one, an awesome one.

Cheers everyone!

As for the climbing... I tried to hone my trad game a little in Indy Pass, and then tested it last night on a new 40 meter 13d / 14a gear line in the Fins. More info to come soon, but it's a stunner. Now there's a short little bouldery thing that is next on my list. Will need to draw from all of my experience this summer to pull it off. Wish me luck...

Every year for the last four years, around this time in the late summer, I've gathered my various things and bounced my way down the horrible access road to the Fins. As the towering bone-white ribbons of limestone escape my rear-view mirror, I imagine to myself, 'I wonder when I'll be back to this place?' On more than a couple occasions I've admitted defeat in the search for new routes at this cliff (for a limited time only). And now, four years later, I've returned and once again been blown away by what I find. I've struck out a few times now, no doubt. Bolting an impossible face - finding out the hard way. Overall, however, there's always been something. And furthermore, something pretty damn amazing.

This year I struck out, twice. I also struck gold, twice. A crack that I had spied on the Yellowcake Wall last season when bolting my 40m route 'Antidote' 13d, panned out to be absolutely incredible. I envisioned the line together with my good buddy Ian Cavanaugh. It begins with a 6 bolt 5.10 and then fires up to the very top of the wall via a short bolted boulder problem and then a long, intimidating and immaculate crack system - on traditional gear. I climbed this stunner route a little over a week ago, in the company of many good friends, on a splitter day in Eastern Idaho. This 13d or potentially 14a rig is the third of it's kind at the Fins - along with my routes 'Enter the Dragon' 14a R and 'Year of the Ox' 13d R - all with a few bolts but primarily gear, on amazing limestone, and they are all over 35 meters long -- all three await a repeat.

©Ian Cavanaugh

The other main objective for me there was to check out a potential extension to my 2013 route 'Better Living Through Chemisty' 14b/c, which unfortunately did not pan out. Too blank, just a little too reachy, a little too heinous. But the bolts are there! and it's fully open, as is the extension to my 2012 route 'Catalyst' 14b. Two mega projects.. waiting for someone strong and tall..

After striking out on the 'Better Living' extension I was repeating some classics to cheer myself up. I lowered from 'Son of Discovery' 13a and spotted a faint line of grips to the right. The next day I bolted the short line, sussing some beta but it still seemed impossible. On another day I found an alternative sequence and moved a couple bolts to the left. On the next day I did the moves. Each move in the crux sequence felt so hard - linking them would be at my limit for bouldering. Beta refinement, healthy encouragement from friends and a strong evening breeze made some links possible, and then by the following day I had linked the entire boulder problem. After two days rest I came back and did the route. Short and very savage, this route is so similar in style to Dave Graham's 'Psychedelic' 14d in Utah or BJ Tilden's 'Moonshine' 14d in Wyoming. Before this summer of bouldering I highly doubt it would be possible for me. A punchy 13b leads to a clip but no rest, directly into what I felt was a solid 4-move V13, and then directly into a strange and nerve-racking 5.13 exit. 'Mala Leche' is the name. It's a new style of route for me, and a unique way to climb on a rope. Five bolts... V-hard. I was relieved, and exhausted after sending.

So the next day we climbed a few quick pitches, enjoyed a road-side hot springs and journeyed towards another perfectly vertical American destination.. Smith Rock.

This is one of my favorite crags in the world, manicured trails, composting toilets, jaw dropping sunsets, bold run-outs and fully engaging rock climbing. I was drawn back here to teach a clinic at this last weekend's American Alpine Club Craggin Classic, but the superb climbing and some tolerable weather has kept me stoked.

Even just revisiting the classics like 'Magic Light' and 'Fully Heinous' has been super fun but I also wanted to explore some new (er) terrain too. I spent a day and a half getting pretty kicked around in the Aggro Gully but I did manage to get away with a send / repeat on 'White Wedding' 14a? a route that has changed form over its many years but even got a little harder since I first did it in 2010. Around the corner I ventured over to Picnic Lunch Wall a few days ago. With the heat settling back in I was less than optimistic but I tied in at the base of Scott Milton's 'Big R' 14a and with some great beta from my good friend Greg Kerzhner I made my way to the top and clipped anchors. As much as I would love to claim a flash I did try part of this route once back in 2010. It's a great pitch. Technical and long, with pretty honest cruxes. The neighboring route is called 'Starvation Fruit' 14b and I'd always heard that it was pretty serious. In many ways it's not that serious in-fact. Much easier cruxes than most of the Aggro Gully but just a never-ending pump - I guess a little different style for Smith. I really liked it actually... like a well set gym route (it kind of is..). Now we have just today and tomorrow left before we take off again and venture towards Wyoming via Portland. There's one more pitch I would really like to tackle before we leave but I'm not sure that it is quite prime with 90 degree temps predicted... I'll pray for a breeze!

I did a review recently on a product that I'm super stoked on, especially looking ahead to 6 weeks of training for the fall. Powerfingers have been keeping my fingers healthy and I wrote a little bit about it in my review page. Have a look!

Here I am, SouthBound on I-25 with Denver on the horizon. Solid five weeks on the road wrapped. I love this life. Always in transition, always something to look forward to, always a new zone, new friends and new climbing just around the bend. Every morning I wake up and feel grateful, motivated, stoked. The last several weeks have been especially exciting, as we trucked across the Pacific North West and back down to Idaho and Wyoming. I'll let the pictures do the talking:

Smith Rocks. I made it up this incredible arete in some horrendous heat. Loved every terrifying moment of it.. 'Spank the Monkey' 13d R. So damn good.

Homeboy Boone Speed gave us an incredible Portland tour, drinking and food but also the local crags. 'FreakShow' 14a was definitely worth the visit.

City of Rocks, Idaho. So amazing. Ari on 'Fido' 11c.

We trad climbed, sport climbed and bouldered every day in the City. Not many places in the world that you can do that and stay on top quality climbing. Here I'm pictured doing 'Tres Huecos' V12.

Idaho Mountain Fest. One of the best events in the country without a doubt...

Beau Stuart climbs 'Demon Daze' V10, a stunner.

Yellowstone. Almost too much beauty to absorb in just a long day. I had already been twice but I was still left completely speechless.

That's a wrap on an amazing road trip with this girl...

Now, it's time to shift gears and prepare for the fall and winter. Six weeks of training. Starting tomorrow... stoked. Ready for the pain.

In the meantime, I've got tons of events on the Horizon --->

Arcteryx is opening a Brand Store this weekend in Denver. This is going to be awesome.

I will be doing a live interview / Q and A -- something a little different for me -- with my friends over at Neptune Mountaineering on October 1 at 8pm. Stoked.

Lastly (at least for the next few weeks) I am doing the ROCK Project event with the Access Fund in Denver the weekend of the 3rd. This is a super cool project and an event that I'm very excited to be a part of.

Catch me at one of these awesome event!

Last weekend I had the pleasure of checking out my first Access Fund ROCK Project event. The aim of this event is a little different that the average climbing festival. The hope is to help educate the community about stewardship and sustainable practices at the crag, all interwoven into skills clinics and of course, beer drinking.

Travis Herbert is the man. Access Fund Education Director. Michael Allen Photo.

Much like the topic would suggest, this was a much more demanding event - for all parties involved - than most. But I feel the results were worth it. Personally I took quite a bit away from the event - perhaps too much to write here, or more accurately too boring to write here. What I feel was most important though is this:

The conversation about where climbing is going, how we are impacting our public places, and what we can do to make a positive change ... this conversation is happening. Not in someone's basement after several beers too many, waxing nostalgic and making slurred proclamations... it's happening between powerful companies, strong non profits and influencers. This is a meaningful conversation and course of action and I think people should know, so that they can join in. The reality is that climbing is changing, the landscape in which we climb is changing, and we need to change with it.

Graffiti removal at Morrison Boulders with a huge group of people who care. Michael Allen Photo

The second 'most important' lesson for me from the weekend was in regards to mentorship - or perhaps the modern lack thereof. This type of relationship shaped my understanding of how to interact with wilderness and how to conduct yourself in the 'wild'. We have all made mistakes, no doubt, and hopefully learned from them. The benefit of having respectful mentorship is that those role models can help us learn from their mistakes. I've had - and still have - many mentors. Perhaps I'm impressionable but I really value this kind of relationship. My hope is that I can make a positive impression on a few people along the road - and when I make mistakes I can feel brave enough to share them.

Learn more about the Rock Project here.

Tommy sneaks in a hug with bro Dan Mirsky . Michael Allen Photo

Speaking of inspirational people... I did an interview with Fort Collins local Ben Scott that I just published on my Five Questions page. This is one of my favorite interviews I've done - perhaps because it hits on many of the points I have made above but also because Ben is a powerhouse first ascentionist with a fiery passion - nothing is more motivating than that. Have a read.

Just two more weeks to prepare. Also two more weeks to enjoy the US, see friends, family. Two weeks to wander the isles at Whole Foods and 'sample' bulk items. Two weeks to stick to the program and stay motivated to improve. Two weeks until I fly to Catalunya for 3 months.

Most of my time has been indoors, which usually in mid October would be driving me mad, but the cooler temperatures have just recently started to emerge. Thankfully I did take advantage, at least a little. I am so grateful for my experiences bouldering earlier this year - not only did it help me improve as a climber but my motivation for bouldering has opened a whole new world of areas and challenges. There is a lot of good bouldering out there!

'The Heist' V12 is a brilliant line found by Andy Mann and opened by Kevin Jorgeson way back in 09. More like a route, the thing is nearly 25 continuous moves with building difficulty near the finish. I can't believe how relatively unknown this awesome boulder is. On my first try from the start I chickened out over the abyss - it's actually quite scary! Here is some less than perfect Go-Pro footy of the problem.

Later that day I did a cool crimper test-piece on the Gill Boulder called '606' V10. It was a little warm for this sharp boulder but I was so stoked to be outside for one of the first times in a month that I didnt much care.

A few days back I got another day out. With a great crew we checked out Guanella Pass for the first time. Temps were nearly perfect, overcast, breezy... fall weather. It was super motivating. I climbed 'Mind Matters' V11/12, 'Crimping Matters' V9/10, 'Earth Matters' V10, 'Love Mattress' V12, 'Dark Horse' V10 and 'High Horse Sit' V9. Everything was worth while but for me, Love Mattress was the coolest, most involved problem that I saw on our tour -- nice work Will! One of the best things about this area in my mind is the range of bouldering grades and accessibility for V1 to V12 climbers. There is a rad problem at almost every grade, in a small area. I met many motivated and super cool climbers out there as well.

Aspen Arete V3

Mind Matters, Ari Prat Barnadas photo

Love Mattress, Ari Prat Barnadas photo

Catalunya. I'm back.

Feels a little more like home this time around. I know where the highways go, I know when the stores are open, I know a few more words than before. I really love this place. As I planned, and as I usually try to do, I hit the ground running here. After over 5 weeks of training and preparing I was ready to try hard.

Unfortunately the weather was less than desirable. When we first arrived the temperatures were still soaring into the mid 20's (C) and for a south facing cliff like Oliana, this is... no bueno. Sam Elias and I were too stoked though. Climbing in the sun, climbing with a headlamp, trying to make it work.

Sharma on another project... Joe Mama...

Sam was equally motivated and despite the heat we started making a little progress. Some nights it was still too hot even hours after the sun left the wall. Our skin got thrashed. We worked up a nice little November tan.

Our friends from Catalunya convinced us that this was 'the week before winter' essentially there is a week in mid November that is always oddly warm before the real winter sets in. We had a tough time believing after experiencing how laughably inaccurate the weather forecasting was here, but we hoped that it could be the truth.

It was true. Like magic, over the course of a few days winter literally settled in. Frost in the morning. The breeze turned cold and strong. Straight from too hot after dark to climbing with pants and shirts in the sun. Now our progress was rapid. I was trying 'Papichulo' 15a and Sam was trying the notoriously hard 'Joe Blau' 14c. We both one-hung our routes. I sent. Sam sent the next day. It was awesome.

At this point we were only 11 days or so into our multi-month trips. Both so satisfied that the training paid off and grateful for the opportunity ahead. That feeling of an 'open book' after you complete your goal and suddenly you can see and imagine the other lines on the wall. Walking up to the crag and wondering... 'What will I try today??' It's a very nice feeling. Naturally it was not long until we went full force into the next route.

Up until this point I had only climbed on Papichulo and the 5.12 warm ups. I was eager to start a new hard project, but also maybe it would be cool to mix things up a little? I onsighted an amazing crag classic with 'Marroncita' 13d, and then decided I was ready to invest myself again. Short break from repeat failure but that's why I came here!

Next I needed to say goodbye to Oliana and Catalunya for several days. I wandered over to visit an old friend of mine; the Verdon. This place is truly something magic. It's powerful, dramatic, intimidating and strikingly beautiful. Being here I feel a lot of things - inspired, afraid, humble. It was a long few days working on a video project (details to follow next year!) but it was worth it.

Back in Oliana I felt a little derailed from my main objective after 5 days of 'rest' and several of them uncomfortable and downright bone chilling. After the seven hour drive I met Sam who generously drove down to help me get a few pitches in and I flashed 'Los Humildes pa Casa' 14a, a lifelist route, a total surprise, and a memorable level of pump. I was... wow... pumped. And now after another day on my new objective I am feeling a little more grounded back in my mission here and stoked for the next month. Just the simple climbing life and trying hard until Christmas. I love it.... !!!

Progress here in Catalunya. We have our little apartment, bathed in radiant sunshine every morning as soon as the golden ball crests the mountain behind Figols. When we first arrived the sun hit our patio shortly after 8 in the morning, now it's closer to 9:45.

I certainly have the feeling that it's winter here - Christmas lights, cute little Catalan Tios, short days and cold air. The difference from Colorado is the sun. The sun soaks the crag every day, and yet still it can feel bitter cold with even a slight breeze. That being said there are definitely days where we are boiling hot. The cliff is primarily south facing so altogether it can be a battle to find the perfect conditions. Regardless, there has yet to be a day - now after over a month - when we have not been able to climb at all. Pretty insane. We are lucky in this sense. Very lucky.

And now my time here is coming to a close. About week left, a handful of climbing days. A few days before Christmas my girlfriend Ari and I are moving to Vic, near Barcelona, to change the scene and enjoy the holidays a little. More climbing, but a different pace for sure. It will be a welcome change. I usually schedule my climbing trips with six to eight weeks of performance and a good month to just enjoy climbing near the end... before the cycle starts all over again.

This trip has been very successful for me. After Papichulo I immediately turned my attention to 'Power Inverter' 15a. A power endurance test-piece, there is nowhere to hide. From the first hard move to the last I did not rest - I couldn't. A pumpy finish and nerve-racking bitter end. Pretty unique and insane features on this route. Many, many underclings. Snappy. I loved it. A great contrast from Papichulo. Tara Reynvaan shot the above image and she is finalizing work on a video - keep an eye out!

The next objective for me would provide a different kind of contrast. 'Duele La Realidad' 14d begins with a savagely hard boulder problem. Roughly with moves, and in comparison to all the bouldering I did this summer it felt like honest V13. After this low crux you have a good rest, and then a long and involved mid 5.14 to the anchors at the 50 meter mark. I struggled with the bottom. The hardest moves revolved around a super fickle right hand pocket / edge that I could never seem to get perfectly when climbing from the ground. I tried again and again. I was in no shape for short, heinous bouldering but futhermore this route just really challenged me. On Sunday, in a cloud of mist, after many efforts on the bottom I tied in for one last try. I made it through the bottom, and fought my way, resting as I could, up the gut of the cliff into a massive tufa system up high, swinging my arms to warm up as the wintery, humid cold settled in. On paper not the hardest route of my trip but the most rewarding for sure. Sam Elias shot the images above.

I've got one more hard one lined up, yesterday I fell agonizingly close on my second try. But as I was reminded on Duele, patience is key. Hopefully I can pull it off in my last few days here. Happy December to everyone!

Oh and DONATE TO THE ACCESS FUND!!!!!!

It's that time... do it.

in transit

in Spain

La Rambla

Estado

Exit Cornudella

----

Montserrat and somehow in South France

Le Cadre

final weeks

the list

Estes Life

Bouldering

almost to the road...

Thirty

Fins -> Smith

end of the road (for now)

ROCK Project

un poco bouldering

Catalunya

Oliana days